Orange blossom is the flower of the bitter orange tree, or Seville orange, Citrus aurantium. In perfumery it gives two main materials: neroli, obtained by distillation, and orange blossom absolute, obtained by solvent extraction. The same tree also supplies orange flower water, petitgrain from the leaves and bitter orange oil pressed from the peel.
The bitter orange, an orange you don't eat
The bitter orange is a small evergreen tree native to Asia. It reached the Mediterranean in the Middle Ages through the Arabs, long before the sweet orange. Its fruit is too bitter to eat raw and is mostly made into marmalade. The tree is vigorous and is also used as a rootstock for other citrus.
It flowers in spring, usually between April and May. The flowers are small, white, thick and intensely fragrant. They are picked by hand and spoil quickly, so they have to be processed soon after harvest. A very large quantity of flowers is needed to obtain a little oil: the figure usually given is one tonne of flowers for about one kilo of neroli.
The name neroli is said to come from Anne Marie Orsini, princess of Nerola, a town near Rome. According to tradition, at the end of the 17th century she made orange blossom oil fashionable for scenting her gloves and her bath. Nerol, an odorous molecule, takes its own name from neroli.
One flower, several materials
Our article on extraction methods describes each technique. The bitter orange tree shows clearly how the same flower smells different depending on the process.
Steam distillation gives neroli. Heat and water favour the lightest molecules, such as linalool and limonene. Neroli smells fresh, green and slightly bitter. It keeps a zesty side that recalls citrus.
Distillation also leaves behind a scented water, orange flower water. The most water soluble molecules stay in it, including methyl anthranilate. This water smells softer and more floral than neroli. It is used mainly in pastry, in North Africa and the Middle East, and in cosmetics.
Extraction with a volatile solvent first gives a concrete, then orange blossom absolute. The absolute is richer in methyl anthranilate and contains indole. It smells warmer, more honeyed and more carnal than neroli, with a slightly animalic facet. Some perfumes use both together to bring these facets into one composition.
Petitgrain and bitter orange: the leaves and the peel
Petitgrain bigarade is obtained by steam distillation of the leaves and young twigs. Its name comes from the small green fruits that used to be distilled. It is rich in linalyl acetate and linalool. Its scent is green, woody and slightly bitter, with a discreet floral background that suggests a drier neroli. It costs far less, because leaves are plentiful. Paraguay is a major producer.
Bitter orange oil is cold pressed from the peel of the fruit. It smells of orange, with a bitterness and a greenness that sweet orange lacks. Like other pressed citrus oils, it contains furocoumarins, compounds that make the skin sensitive to sunlight. Its use in products applied to the skin is therefore restricted.
Together, neroli, petitgrain and bitter orange form the base of the classic eaux de Cologne, along with bergamot, lemon and rosemary.
Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt, Grasse: where it comes from
Tunisia is one of the main producers of neroli. The bitter orange groves are concentrated in the Cap Bon region, around Nabeul. Orange flower water is also made there at home, within families.
Morocco is known above all for its orange blossom absolute. Egypt produces both neroli and absolute, in large quantities.
In France, the Grasse region, and even more Vallauris and the coast between Cannes and Antibes, long grew bitter orange trees for perfumery. This production has become very small. Grasse orange blossom on a product page therefore points to a rare material, without saying how much of the formula it represents.
Natural and synthetic
Neroli and the absolute are expensive materials. Perfumers often extend or reconstruct them with molecules. Linalool, linalyl acetate, nerolidol and methyl anthranilate reproduce a good part of the profile. Indole brings the carnal facet of the absolute.
On its own, methyl anthranilate smells of grape juice; surrounded by other notes, it smells of the flower. Combined with certain aldehydes, it forms what are called Schiff bases, such as aurantiol, which give a rounder and longer lasting orange blossom effect.
An "orange blossom" note in a pyramid can therefore mean the absolute, an accord, or a blend of the two.
What orange blossom smells like
The scent varies a great deal from one material to another. Neroli carries the green facet. It smells of zest and crushed leaves, with a metallic edge. The absolute carries the honeyed, warm and waxy facet, quite close to jasmine. Orange flower water mostly brings pastry to mind.
It also has a soapy facet. Neroli and petitgrain scented soaps and eaux de toilette for a long time. A composition that puts them forward often evokes clean skin and fresh laundry.
It pairs naturally with citrus and with the other white flowers, such as jasmine and tuberose. With rose, it lightens the heart. With almond or vanilla, it turns gourmand. It also works very well with tea.
Orange blossom perfumes from our catalogue
Here are perfumes from the catalogue that list orange blossom, neroli or bitter orange in their pyramid. Iyokan and Lamoon by Tada Parfumeur, and Mango Ambrosia by Zhufu, are already covered in our article on extraction methods.
Neroli as a luminous opening
Archangels by Cæleste opens on neroli, blood mandarin and CO2 pink pepper. The heart brings together lily, tuberose, davana, rose and ylang ylang, over a base of olibanum, myrrh and benzoin. Here neroli brightens dense white flowers and a resinous base, which our article on frankincense describes in more detail. See our introduction to Cæleste.
Neroli against spices and oud
Noir by Aaron Terence Hughes places neroli in a top of black pepper, saffron, nutmeg and cardamom, before a tobacco heart and a base of vanilla, tonka, oud, incense and civet. Divine Oud, from the same house, opens on neroli, coconut, peach and Dragon Oud, then moves to black cherry, chocolate and jasmine sambac, over a base of sandalwood, vanilla and Thai oud. In both cases, neroli lightens a very rich composition. Read the story of Aaron Terence Hughes.
Orange blossom and tea
ChuJian often pairs orange blossom with tea. Oolong Rocking Green N°P26 is inspired by yaoqing, the step in which Tieguanyin leaves are bruised. The heart brings together jasmine, orange blossom, ylang ylang, rose and orchid, over a base of oolong tea, vetiver and moss.
Phoenix Meets Mountain N°P27 evokes the oolong of the Phoenix Mountains in Guangdong. Orange blossom surrounds the oolong tea in the heart, with jasmine, orris root and rose. The darker base blends sandalwood, vetiver and tobacco. Our article on ChuJian introduces the house.
Orange blossom in a high altitude green
Snow on Cangshan N°P44 by ChuJian is inspired by the snowy peaks of Mount Cangshan in Yunnan. A top of galbanum, blackcurrant, bergamot, geranium and apple gives a sharp green. A heart of jasmine, orange blossom, rose and basil warms it, before a base of cedar, vetiver, patchouli and musk.
Orange blossom and rose
Sahara by Widian, composed by Jean-Claude Astier, opens on saffron, orange and elemi. The heart pairs rose and orange blossom, over a base of amber, musk, cedar and vanilla. Orange blossom rounds out the rose and extends the orange of the top. See our introduction to Widian.
Yihe in Rosa N°P41 by ChuJian does the opposite: orange blossom and geranium open the composition before a heart of rose, cistus, jasmine and ylang ylang, over a base of vetiver and patchouli. Our article on rose looks at this kind of accord in detail.
Gourmand orange blossom
Cozonac by Adi ale Van recreates the braided sweet bread of Romanian holidays. The top brings together candied lemon, zests, panettone and roasted hazelnuts. The heart pairs panna cotta, orange blossom and rum, over a base of Madagascar vanilla and candied fruit. Read our article on Adi ale Van.
At Zhufu, Pistachio Muse puts orange blossom in the top with green pistachio and bergamot, before a heart of vanilla cream, almond paste and warm milk. Triple Matcha uses it in the heart, with two matchas, milk, Grasse rose absolute, vanilla seeds and incense. In both, it links the milky notes and the green notes. Our article on Zhufu introduces the house.
Orange blossom as a base note
Amoral by Pernoire makes the rare choice of placing orange blossom in the base, with amber notes, sandalwood and tonka bean. It arrives after a top of lime, black tea, spices and smoked prunes, and a heart of violet, iris, oud and cypriol. Read our article on Pernoire.
Bitter orange from the peel
Other perfumes keep the fruit rather than the flower. Throne by Zhufu opens on bitter orange, grapefruit, lime and mint, then moves to black pepper and pink pepper, over a base of cashmere wood, cedar and vetiver. Moonlight Silken Veil N°L32 by ChuJian pairs bitter orange with bergamot, lemon and blackcurrant, before a heart of peach, rose and jasmine.
Yan Qi Dian Xia by Cinojad evokes summer in the meadows of Yanqi. Bitter orange sits alongside pomelo and wild sweet flag in the top, and the heart adds pomelo blossom, another citrus flower, to a meadow accord. Read our article on Cinojad.
More orange blossom compositions can be found in our selections of floral perfumes and fresh perfumes.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between neroli and orange blossom?
Both come from the same flower. Neroli is the oil obtained by steam distillation. It smells fresh, green and slightly zesty. Orange blossom absolute is obtained by solvent extraction. It smells warmer, more honeyed and more carnal. On a product page, "orange blossom" can also mean an accord.
Does petitgrain also come from the orange tree?
Yes. Petitgrain bigarade is distilled from the leaves and young twigs of the bitter orange tree. It smells greener and woodier than neroli. There are also petitgrains made from other citrus trees, such as lemon or mandarin.
Why does orange blossom sometimes smell of grapes or honey?
These facets come mainly from methyl anthranilate. On its own, this molecule smells of grape juice. In the absolute, it combines with indole and other compounds to give the honeyed effect.
Why does orange blossom remind us of soap?
Neroli and petitgrain were widely used in eaux de Cologne and soaps. Our memory therefore links their scent with cleanliness.
Is an orange blossom perfume always fresh?
No. Neroli brings freshness, but the absolute is warm and sensual. Paired with vanilla, honey, oud or amber, as in Cozonac, Divine Oud or Amoral, orange blossom turns gourmand or dark.
Further reading
Orange blossom is one of the materials covered in our Perfume materials guide, along with rose, vanilla and sandalwood. To compare a luminous neroli, a gourmand orange blossom and a bitter orange on your own skin, the perfumes mentioned are available as 2 ml samples, depending on the house, on our samples page.