Frankincense, also known as olibanum, is a gum resin produced by trees of the genus Boswellia. It is obtained by cutting into the bark: the tree releases a milky sap that hardens in the air into small, pale yellow tears. The species used grow in the south of the Arabian Peninsula, in the Horn of Africa and in India. Perfumers draw an essential oil, a resinoid or a CO2 extract from it, with lemony, peppery and resinous notes.
A resin obtained by tapping
Boswellia trees belong to the Burseraceae family, like the trees that give myrrh and elemi. They are small trees, often with twisted trunks, growing on rocky ground in hot regions where very little rain falls.
The resin forms in ducts just beneath the bark. To harvest it, the trunk and branches are cut with a small tool. A white sap beads from the wound and dries on the tree for several days. The harvesters then pick off the hardened tears and reopen the cuts, throughout the dry season.
The tears are sorted by hand according to size, color and purity. The palest and most translucent are the most sought after. Overharvesting weakens the trees. Several studies warn of the decline of some Boswellia populations, particularly in Ethiopia, as a result of repeated tapping, grazing and fires.
Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia, India: the origins
Boswellia sacra grows in Dhofar, in southern Oman, as well as in Yemen and northern Somalia. Omani frankincense is the historical benchmark. The most prized grade, hojari, comes from the inland plateaus of Dhofar.
In Somalia, the name Boswellia carterii is often used. Many botanists regard it as a synonym of Boswellia sacra, but it remains widely used in the essential oil trade.
Ethiopia, Eritrea and Sudan mainly harvest Boswellia papyrifera. Its oil has a slightly different, softer profile. In India, Boswellia serrata is used mostly in traditional medicine and in incense sticks, and fairly little in fine fragrance.
Essential oil, resinoid and CO2 extract
The essential oil is obtained by steam distillation. It is fresh, lemony and peppery, with a resinous side reminiscent of pine. Being fairly volatile, it often sits in the top notes.
The resinoid is extracted from the resin with a solvent. It is a thick material, warmer and more balsamic, that lasts much longer. It serves as a base note and a fixative. Supercritical CO2 extract comes closer to the smell of the resin itself, between the freshness of the oil and the roundness of the resinoid. Several note pyramids in our catalog specify "olibanum CO2".
The smoky smell we associate with frankincense does not exist in the raw resin. It only appears when the resin is burned. To recreate it, perfumers add smoky notes such as birch, cade or guaiac wood, along with synthetic molecules. A "frankincense" note can therefore mean the natural oil, an accord, or both. The pyramid describes a smell; it does not spell out the formula.
Myrrh and elemi, two related resins
Myrrh comes from thorny shrubs of the genus Commiphora, mainly Commiphora myrrha, which grow in the same regions as frankincense: Somalia, Ethiopia, Yemen. Its resin is reddish brown. It smells warmer and more bitter than olibanum, with a medicinal, slightly earthy facet.
Elemi is the resin of Canarium luzonicum, a tall tree from the Philippines. It also belongs to the Burseraceae. It smells very fresh, lemony and peppery, with a hint close to fennel.
Frankincense and myrrh have been paired since antiquity, right down to the story of the Magi. In a perfume, myrrh darkens frankincense and elemi heightens its freshness.
What frankincense smells like
Olibanum first smells of lemon zest, pepper and pine resin. Then come a softer balsamic note and a mineral facet, close to cold stone. That facet is what we associate with the smell of a church. Once burned, it takes on a dry, smoky character.
Frankincense is one of the oldest aromatic materials known. The Incense Route carried it from Arabia to the Mediterranean. The Catholic and Orthodox Churches still use it in their services, often blended with other resins. In Arabia, it is also burned at home. The word "perfume" is thought to come from the Latin per fumum, "through smoke".
In perfumery, frankincense pairs with dry woods such as cedarwood, cypress and vetiver for a church effect. With rose and oud, it forms a classic accord of Middle Eastern perfumery. It also works with leather and smoky notes, with spices such as cardamom and pepper, with amber resins such as labdanum and benzoin, and more recently with tea or cocoa.
Frankincense perfumes from our catalog
All the perfumes below list frankincense, olibanum or one of its related resins in the note pyramid published on their product page. Some make it the main subject, others use it to add depth to a rose, a tea or a gourmand.
Olibanum, myrrh and elemi together
Archangels, by Cæleste, composed by Cristiano Canali, brings all three resins together in the base: olibanum, myrrh and elemi, with amber, benzoin and cedarwood. An opening of neroli, blood mandarin and pink pepper leads to a heart of lily, tuberose, davana, rose and ylang-ylang.
Principalities, from the same house, is signed by David-Lev Jipa-Slivinschi. Hyssop, black tea, rose thorn and violet up top, then mineral notes, petrichor, assafi oud, galbanum, leather and immortelle in the heart. The base brings together ash, elemi resin, saffron, frankincense and sandalwood. The mineral, smoky facet of frankincense comes through clearly. Our article on Cæleste presents the house.
Frankincense and rose
Rosanostra, by Spiritica, is built around three roses: Taif black rose, Damask rose and rose centifolia, with a note of burnt paper. Bitter orange opens the composition, and the base sets olibanum over damp earth. Here the frankincense lends a ceremonial tone. The house is covered in our article on Spiritica.
Luvani, by Pernoire, places frankincense on two levels. It appears in the top with moonflower, jasmine and tuberose, then returns in the base as olibanum, with white rose, cedarwood and Ambrostar. The heart pairs hazel leaf, vanilla, guaiac wood and nutmeg. Our profile of Pernoire covers the Swiss house in detail.
Peppery frankincense from Aaron Terence Hughes
Morpheus opens on CO2 olibanum, with cardamom and pink pepper. The heart moves on to amber, osmanthus and tonka bean, and the base brings together Thai oud, sandalwood, vetiver and patchouli.
Midnight Fever does the opposite and saves the olibanum for the end. Bergamot, lavender and apple up top, amber, grapefruit and marine notes in the heart, then vetiver, patchouli, nutmeg, olibanum and Thai oud. The frankincense darkens an aquatic perfume. Our profile of Aaron Terence Hughes explains the house's concentrations.
Frankincense with oud, leather and smoke
Oudian, by Pernoire, takes its name from oud and durian. Durian, saffron, tropical fruit and Sichuan pepper open the composition. The heart pairs cistus labdanum and olibanum, before a base of oud, leather and vetiver.
Labels of Feelings, by Adi ale Van, composed by Antonio Alessandria, sets a white floral against a dark base. Passion fruit, blackcurrant buds, plum and juniper tar up top, then lily of the valley, magnolia, jasmine and saffron. The base brings together cedarwood, olibanum, labdanum, leather, smoke, an ambergris accord and musks. The tar and smoke give the olibanum a burnt character. See also our profile of Adi ale Van.
Gourmand frankincense
Coliva, from the same house, composed by Giovanni Festa, is named after the wheat cake shared at Orthodox memorial services. Olibanum appears right from the top with licorice, cardamom, wormwood, cocoa, coffee and white chocolate. The heart evokes freshly baked bread, and the base brings together labdanum, tonka, butter, amber, vanilla and animalic notes. The product page describes it as bread and church wax in a single bottle.
Cocoa Toffee, by Zhufu, places frankincense in the heart with cocoa, ebony and toffee. The top brings together Tianjin mahua, a twisted fried dough, hazelnut and peanut, and the base guaiac wood, coffee and ambergris. The frankincense adds a dry edge that tempers the roasted notes.
Frankincense with tea and greenery
Triple Matcha, by Zhufu, brings together three varieties of matcha. The frankincense sits in the heart, with Samidori and Okumidori matcha, milk, orange blossom, Grasse rose and vanilla seeds. It gives depth to a milky green tea.
Raw, from the same house, moves from greenery to flowers and then to woods. Bergamot, coriander and grass up top, jasmine, lotus and violet in the heart, then amber, cedarwood, frankincense and musk. Our article on Zhufu presents the house's other perfumes.
Frankincense, ink and paper
The Print House, by Tada Parfumeur, was born from a collaboration with a fanzine workshop. Coffee absolute, an ink accord, carrot seed and saffron up top, then a paper accord, a metallic note, frankincense and orris in the heart, over a base of cashmeran, leather and oakmoss. The frankincense joins the dry facet of paper and ink. Our profile of Tada Parfumeur tells the perfumer's story.
Myrrh and elemi in the spotlight
Hua Qiang Ye Meng, by Cinojad, means "night dream of wild roses". Camphor tree blossom, jasmine grandiflorum and wild rose up top, banana leaf, frangipani and borneol in the heart, then elemi resin, Burmese rosewood and benzoin. The elemi extends the camphoraceous freshness of the opening. Our article on Cinojad presents its other creations.
Phoenix Meets Mountain N°P27, by ChuJian, is inspired by the Phoenix Mountains in Guangdong, where Dan Cong oolong tea grows. Myrrh appears right from the top with citrus, bergamot and rum. The heart brings together oolong tea, jasmine, orris and rose, over a base of sandalwood, vetiver and tobacco. The myrrh gives the opening a warm, resinous feel. See also our profile of ChuJian.
You will find more frankincense compositions in our selections of woody perfumes and oriental perfumes.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between frankincense and olibanum?
For perfumery, none. Olibanum is the name of the resin from Boswellia trees, and frankincense its everyday name. The word incense also refers to any blend that is burned to scent the air.
What is Omani frankincense?
It is the resin of Boswellia sacra harvested in Dhofar, in southern Oman. It is the historical benchmark for frankincense quality. Hojari, harvested on the inland plateaus, is its most prized grade.
What is the difference between frankincense and myrrh?
Both are resins from trees of the same family, harvested by tapping in the same regions. Frankincense is pale and smells of lemon, pepper and resin. Myrrh is darker and smells warmer, more bitter and more earthy.
Does a frankincense perfume always smell of smoke?
No. The raw resin smells fresh and lemony, and smoke only appears when it is burned. A perfume can play on the freshness of olibanum, like Morpheus, or recreate burning resin with smoky notes, like Labels of Feelings.
Does frankincense last long on the skin?
It depends on the material used. The essential oil is fairly volatile and comes through mostly in the opening. The resinoid and frankincense accords in the base last several hours, and frankincense often acts as a fixative there.
Further reading
Frankincense is one of the materials covered in our Perfume materials guide, along with oud, sandalwood and vanilla. To compare a peppery frankincense, a floral frankincense and a gourmand frankincense on your own skin, the perfumes mentioned are available as 2 ml samples, depending on the house, on our samples page.