Benzoin is a resin produced by trees of the genus Styrax in Southeast Asia. It is obtained by cutting into the bark: the sap runs out, hardens in the air and is gathered in pieces. In perfumery it is used as a resinoid or a tincture. It smells of vanilla, balsam and sometimes cinnamon, with a powdery softness. It is found mostly as a base note, where it softens ambers, orientals and woods and helps the other materials last.
A Styrax resin from Laos and Sumatra
The Styrax trees belong to the Styracaceae family. The species that yield benzoin grow in Southeast Asia. Two main types share the trade, and each comes from a different species and a different region.
Siam benzoin comes mainly from Styrax tonkinensis. Laos is its main source, together with Vietnam and northern Thailand. Its name recalls the kingdom of Siam, through which the resin was exported.
Sumatra benzoin comes from Styrax benzoin. It is produced in the north of the island, notably around Dairi and North Tapanuli. According to fieldwork, the precise identification of the species used locally is not entirely settled.
A cut, then hardened tears
To collect the resin, harvesters make cuts in the bark of the trunk. A thick liquid runs out, then hardens in the air. The harvesters detach the solidified pieces, which are called tears.
The tears are sorted by quality, according to their colour and purity. They then travel to the extraction centres, where the products used in perfumery are prepared.
Siam or Sumatra: two smells
The composition of benzoin combines benzoic acid derivatives, vanillin and cinnamic acid derivatives, in proportions that vary with origin. Benzoic acid was in fact first isolated from this resin, which explains its name.
According to suppliers, Siam benzoin is lighter and softer, with a marked vanilla facet. Sumatra benzoin is darker and more balsamic, with a hint of cinnamon and a slightly sharp side. These comparisons come from the habits of the trade and depend a great deal on the batch.
An Arabic name and a long history
The word "benzoin" comes from the Arabic lubān jāwī, "frankincense of Java". The resin in question actually came from Sumatra, the island next to Java. The first syllable, mistaken for an article, was dropped in the Romance languages, which led to the forms "benjoin" in French and "benzoin" in English.
The resin was long used as incense, as a medicine and as a fixative. In pharmacy it served as an expectorant and an antiseptic. In perfume it has kept the role of fixative: it slows the evaporation of more volatile materials.
Resinoid, tincture and raw resin
The raw resin can be burned as incense. In perfumery it is dissolved in a solvent to obtain a resinoid, a thick, amber, highly concentrated material. It can also be dissolved in alcohol to prepare a tincture. The very thick consistency of the resinoid generally means it has to be heated or diluted before use. Our article on extracting perfume materials covers these processes.
What benzoin smells like
Benzoin smells of warm vanilla, balsam, powder and soft caramel. Some batches have a cinnamon facet. It is softer than frankincense, whose smell is lemony and peppery.
In perfumery, a fixative is a material that slows the evaporation of the others. Benzoin is heavy and not very volatile, and it stays on the skin for a long time. Even in small amounts, it gives body to a base and smooths the edges of livelier materials.
With labdanum and vanilla, it forms the accord that perfumers call amber, described in our article on amber in perfumery. It is also found with tobacco, sandalwood, oud and the other resins, myrrh and elemi.
Benzoin perfumes from our catalog
Benzoin appears in about twenty pyramids in our catalog. We have chosen perfumes where it is easy to read, from gourmand to resinous, from oud to chypre. All of them list it in the pyramid published on their product page.
Siam benzoin in the heart
Itim Kati, by Tada Parfumeur, specifies a Siam benzoin. It sits in the heart, with jasmine, cotton candy, tonka bean absolute and a palm sugar accord. The top is a coconut cream, a condensed milk accord and a nutty note. The base brings together CO2 roasted coconut, vanilla, woody notes and sandalwood oil. The perfume recalls the coconut ice cream sold by street vendors in Thailand. Our profile of Tada Parfumeur looks back at the perfumer.
Benzoin and warm spices
Tierra, by Pernoire, has a short pyramid, one material readable at each level. Aged rum and red fruits on top, then vanilla, warm spices and benzoin in the heart, and oud alone in the base. The house describes it as a spicy gourmand. Our profile of Pernoire covers the Swiss house.
Benzoin and frankincense in the heart
ATMAYATRA, by Spiritica, whose name means "pilgrimage of the soul" in Sanskrit, evokes a ritual on the banks of the Ganges. Holy basil, cardamom and peppermint on top. The heart brings together benzoin, frankincense, deep green notes, petrichor and rain. Indian sandalwood, patchouli, honey and Madagascar vanilla form the base.
SUSCEPTO, by Spiritica, draws on the Greek island of Tinos. The house combines sea breeze, monastery incense and a balsamic veil. The heart brings together Damask rose, frankincense, benzoin and metallic silver notes. Sandalwood, honey, beeswax and Indonesian vanilla complete the composition. Our profile of Spiritica looks back at the Italian house.
Benzoin and the resins of the base
Guardian Angel, by Caeleste, unfolds in three accords. The purity of white florals comes first, then the musky, vanilla embrace, and finally the protection of the base, which brings together frankincense, benzoin, myrrh and amber. The house classes it among the white floral, musky and resinous perfumes.
VIRTUES, by Caeleste, is a resinous woody amber built in seven stages, the seven virtues. Bergamot, star anise, cinnamon and clove open the composition. Jasmine, iris, honey and cocoa absolute form the heart. The base lines up Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, cypriol, patchouli, frankincense, benzoin, vanilla, labdanum and musk. Our profile of Caeleste looks back at the house.
Benzoin and vanilla
Zeus / Daddy, by Aaron Terence Hughes, pairs apple and bergamot on top with tonka bean and nutmeg in the heart. The base brings together soft oud, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, benzoin, ethical ambergris and a clean skin accord. The house classes it among the woody, gourmand and amber orientals. Our profile of Aaron Terence Hughes looks back at the house.
Caffè Roma, by Zhufu, puts benzoin in the base, with guaiac wood, amber and sandalwood. The opening is made of espresso, Tuscan orange zest and saffron. The heart brings together roasted hazelnut, patchouli resin, black tea and vanilla pod. Our article on Zhufu presents the house.
Benzoin and oud
Oud Noir, by Aaron Terence Hughes, opens on cinnamon and saffron, then a heart of plum and amaretto. The base combines Thai oud at 5%, benzoin and vanilla. According to the house, benzoin and vanilla soften the oud.
Oud, by the same house, starts with rose and sweet orange, with a heart of date, raspberry and amber. The base brings together Thai and Burmese oud, benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla and ambergris. The house classes it among the fruity orientals.
Trat Treat 3, by The Unleashed Apothecary, is a woody gourmand built on oud. Blueberry flesh, crushed raspberry and red wine on top, dark chocolate, cocoa absolute and vanilla orchid in the heart. The base combines Trat Macao oud, an animalic oud, tonka, benzoin and hyraceum. The product page also mentions an oak tincture. Our profile of The Unleashed Apothecary looks back at the house.
Benzoin in precious woods
Hua Qiang Ye Meng, by Cinojad, is a camphorous woody floral inspired by a forest in Xishuangbanna. Camphor blossom, jasmine grandiflorum and wild rose on top, banana leaf, frangipani and borneol in the heart. The base brings together elemi resin, Burmese rosewood and benzoin. Our profile of Cinojad looks back at the house.
Benzoin in a chypre
Buddha's Narcissus N°P42, by ChuJian, opens on lime, bergamot, grapefruit and black pepper. The heart brings together narcissus, lavender and rose. The chypre base combines patchouli, benzoin and moss. Our article on ChuJian presents the house.
You will find other benzoin compositions in our selections of oriental perfumes and gourmand perfumes.
Frequently asked questions
Does benzoin smell of vanilla?
It comes close, especially Siam benzoin, which according to suppliers is richer in vanillin. It adds a balsamic, powdery and sometimes cinnamon facet that vanilla alone does not have.
What is the difference between Siam benzoin and Sumatra benzoin?
They come from two species of Styrax, in two regions. The first is lighter and more vanilla, the second darker and spicier. Perfumers choose according to the effect they want.
Is benzoin a frankincense?
It is sometimes burned like incense, but it comes from another tree. Frankincense, or olibanum, is produced by Boswellia trees and smells of lemon, pepper and resin. Benzoin is softer, sweeter and more vanilla.
Is the benzoin in perfumes natural?
The raw material is a natural resin. Perfumers receive it as a resinoid or a tincture, that is, as an extract of this resin.
Why is benzoin in so many base notes?
It is tenacious and acts as a fixative. It slows the evaporation of light materials and rounds out amber, vanilla and woody bases, which explains its presence in very different perfumes.
Further reading
Benzoin is one of the materials covered in our Perfume materials guide, along with frankincense, vanilla and oud, which recur in most of the perfumes mentioned here. To compare a gourmand benzoin, a resinous benzoin and a benzoin paired with oud on your own skin, the perfumes mentioned are available as 2 ml samples, depending on the house, on our samples page.