Tuberose is a white flower, Polianthes tuberosa, native to Mexico. Its blossoms are intensely fragrant, especially in the evening, and their scent cannot be captured by distillation. Perfumery long worked it by enfleurage, in Grasse, and then by solvent extraction, which yields the absolute used today. It belongs to the family of so-called narcotic white flowers, alongside jasmine, gardenia and ylang-ylang.
A Mexican flower that came to Europe
Tuberose is a perennial of the Asparagaceae family, the same family as agave. It grows from an elongated bulb, and this tuberous bulb gave the plant its name. The word has nothing to do with a "tube rose", as you sometimes read. The stem carries spikes of waxy white flowers that open from the bottom up.
The plant was cultivated in Mexico long before Europeans arrived, and it is no longer known in the wild. The Spanish brought it back to Europe in the 16th century, and it quickly spread through gardens.
Its scent grows stronger at dusk. Like many white flowers, it attracts moths. The flowers are picked early in the morning, while still closed or barely open.
From enfleurage to absolute
Tuberose does not cope well with heat: steam distillation damages its most delicate compounds and produces nothing usable. It does, however, have one precious peculiarity. Once picked, the flower keeps producing its scent for some time.
Cold enfleurage took advantage of this. The flowers were spread on glass plates coated with a purified, odorless animal fat, which absorbed their fragrance. Every day the wilted flowers were removed and fresh ones laid down, for weeks on end, until the fat was saturated. The result was a pomade, which was then washed with alcohol to obtain an absolute of pomade. Grasse used this technique on a large scale for tuberose and jasmine. Far too costly in labor, it was abandoned in the 20th century. Our article on how raw materials are extracted describes this process and the ones that replaced it.
Since then, tuberose has been processed with volatile solvents. The solvent first gives a waxy concrete, and an alcohol wash then draws out the absolute. A very large quantity of flowers is needed for one kilo of absolute, which makes it one of the most expensive floral materials on the palette.
Grasse, then India
For a long time, the Grasse region was the main center for growing tuberose for perfumery. The fields almost vanished as labor and land became more expensive, and only a few growers still cultivate small plots.
India has become the leading producer. Tuberose grows there mainly in the south of the country, where it is also used for garlands and offerings. Egypt and Morocco produce it as well.
Absolute and reconstructions
Tuberose absolute contains several families of molecules. Methyl salicylate gives it a fresh, medicinal facet close to wintergreen, often described as camphoraceous. Methyl benzoate and methyl anthranilate add a fruity, almost grape-like side. Indole, also found in jasmine and orange blossom, brings an animalic note. In small doses it gives the flower flesh and warmth. Lactones account for the creamy, milky texture, with a hint of coconut or peach.
Because the absolute is expensive, most "tuberose" notes in perfumes are reconstructions. The perfumer combines these molecules, often with a share of absolute for depth. No single molecule reproduces the flower. A product page that lists tuberose tells you it is present in the formula, not in what form.
What tuberose smells like
Tuberose first smells of a white flower in full bloom, dense and sweet. Several facets are layered on top of one another. The creamy facet recalls butter, milk and coconut. The camphoraceous facet, fresher, recalls wintergreen and gives the opening its lift. There is also a slightly strange rubbery note that many perfumers love. The base is carnal.
Tuberose is classed among the narcotic white flowers. The term refers to flowers with an enveloping scent, which often share indole. Jasmine, orange blossom, gardenia, ylang-ylang, frangipani and tiare are all part of the group. Gardenia and frangipani are almost always reconstructed, as their natural extracts are rare. Tiare is found mostly in monoi, where its flowers are macerated in coconut oil.
This link with coconut runs through many perfumes. Jasmine is its most frequent partner: it lightens tuberose and makes it brighter. Leather, finally, answers its animalic facet. Pairing a white flower with leather is a classic, covered in our article on leather in perfumery. Tuberose also works well with vanilla, incense and creamy woods such as sandalwood.
Tuberose and white flower perfumes from our catalog
The first perfumes below list tuberose in the pyramid published on their product page. Since only a few are in stock, we have widened the selection to other closely related white flowers: jasmine, frangipani, orange blossom and white flower accords, often paired with coconut or leather.
Tuberose in a tropical bouquet
Hili, by Widian, brings four white flowers together in the heart: jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang and tiare. A spicy top of bergamot, pink pepper, coriander and cinnamon comes first. The base lays down amber, vanilla, coconut milk, sandalwood, patchouli, cedar and tobacco. The coconut milk extends the creamy facet of the tuberose. Only a few bottles remain. Our introduction to Widian tells the story of the house.
Indian tuberose
Mango Ambrosia, by Zhufu, is one of the few perfumes in the catalog to state where its tuberose comes from. Indian tuberose sits in the heart alongside Haikou mango, plum and Grasse orange blossom absolute. The base combines Hainan coconut essence, Madagascar vanilla, Mysore sandalwood and white musk. Our article on Zhufu presents the house's other creations.
Tuberose and coconut milk
Guardian Angel, by Cæleste, composed by Chris Maurice, opens on a white flower accord: neroli, tuberose, jasmine, heliotrope, bergamot and hawthorn. Next comes an accord of musks, coconut milk, cardamom, vanilla and tonka, followed by incense, benzoin, myrrh and amber. Very few bottles remain. Our article on Cæleste introduces the house.
Tuberose and resins
Archangels, from the same house, is signed by Cristiano Canali. Neroli, blood mandarin and pink pepper at the top, then a heart of lily, tuberose, davana, rose and ylang-ylang. The base brings together incense, olibanum, myrrh, amber, benzoin, cedar and elemi. The resins give the white flower a deep, grave tone. To discover both perfumes at once, the 3rd Order set gathers Guardian Angel, Archangels and Principalities in 3 × 5 ml.
Luvani, by Pernoire, places tuberose right in the top, with moonflower, incense and jasmine. The heart combines hazel leaf, vanilla, guaiac wood, nutmeg and white flowers, over a base of Ambrostar, cedar, olibanum and white rose. Moonflower, which opens at night, echoes tuberose, which is also more fragrant in the evening. Our introduction to Pernoire describes the Swiss house.
Tuberose as a base note
Mu Ye Cang Xia, by Cinojad, makes a less common choice. Tuberose only appears in the base, with Turpan mulberry and amyris wood. The top brings together passion fruit, pink berries and May rose, and the heart combines papyrus, grape wine and dark cocoa. See our introduction to Cinojad.
White flowers and coconut
Lamoon, by Tada Parfumeur, works white flowers through several absolutes. Orange blossom and pandan at the top, then a heart of white flowers, jasmine sambac absolute and a palm sugar accord. The base brings together sandalwood, ambrette seed, a coconut cream accord and vanilla. Our introduction to Tada Parfumeur tells the perfumer's story.
Divine Oud, by Aaron Terence Hughes, formerly Boss Bitch, puts coconut right in the opening, with neroli, peach and Dragon Oud. The heart combines black cherry, chocolate, rose and jasmine sambac, over a base of sandalwood, vanilla, ambergris, Thai oud and musk. Our introduction to Aaron Terence Hughes explains the house's concentration.
White flowers and leather
Black IV, by Widian, shows how a white flower and leather work together. Bergamot, blackcurrant and prune at the top, a heart of rose and white flowers, then a base of vanilla, musk, leather and sandalwood.
Jasmine sambac and jasmine grandiflorum
Moonlight Silken Veil N°L32, by ChuJian, brings perfumery's two great jasmines together in the heart, sambac and grandiflorum, with peach, rose, ylang-ylang and oregano. Bitter orange, bergamot, lemon and blackcurrant open the composition. The base brings together fir, musk and moss. Our article on ChuJian introduces the house.
Oolong Rocking Green N°P26, from the same house, sets a bouquet of jasmine, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, rose and orchid between a green top of bergamot, grapefruit and pear and a base of oolong tea, vetiver, moss and musk.
Frangipani and camphor tree blossom
Hua Qiang Ye Meng, by Cinojad, draws on the tropical forest of Xishuangbanna. Camphor tree blossom, jasmine grandiflorum and wild rose at the top, then banana leaf, frangipani and borneol in the heart, over a base of elemi, Burmese rosewood and benzoin. The product page describes it as floral, woody and camphoraceous, a facet often found in white flowers.
Sheer white flowers
Gyokuro, by Tada Parfumeur, shows a lighter use of white flowers. They sit in the heart with ambrette seed and maté absolute, after a top of matcha accord, green notes and saffron. Sandalwood, cedar, musk and guaiac wood form the base. Here the white flowers soften the green of the tea.
You will find other floral compositions in our selection of floral perfumes, and sweeter accords in our gourmand perfumes.
Frequently asked questions
Is tuberose a variety of rose?
No. Tuberose belongs to the agave family. Its name comes from its tuberous bulb, and it has no botanical connection with the rose.
Why is there no tuberose essential oil?
Steam distillation destroys the flower's odorous compounds. It is therefore obtained by solvent extraction, first as a concrete and then as an absolute. In the past, enfleurage played this role.
What is the difference between tuberose and jasmine?
Both share indole and a rich floral character. Jasmine is fruitier and lighter, with a tea-like facet in grandiflorum. Tuberose is creamier and more buttery, with a camphoraceous note and a rubbery side. Perfumers very often pair them.
Why does tuberose sometimes smell of coconut?
It contains lactones, molecules also found in coconut and peach. They give the flower its milky texture. Many perfumes extend this facet with a coconut accord or coconut milk.
Is tuberose a feminine fragrance?
White flowers are often associated with feminine perfumery, but the material itself has no gender. With leather, incense or woods, it becomes darker and drier. The effect depends on the composition more than on the flower itself.
Further reading
Tuberose is one of the materials covered in our Perfume materials guide, along with vanilla, sandalwood and oud. To compare a creamy tuberose, a resinous tuberose and a green jasmine on your own skin, the perfumes mentioned are available as 2 ml samples, depending on the house, on our samples page.