Ambergris is a concretion that forms in the intestine of the sperm whale. Expelled into the sea, it floats for months or years, oxidises in the sun and salt water, and sometimes washes up on a beach. Once aged, it smells of the sea, skin, tobacco and forest floor. It is one of the rarest materials in perfumery, and almost every perfume today replaces it with synthetic molecules such as Ambroxan.
A concretion born in the sperm whale's intestine
The sperm whale, Physeter macrocephalus, feeds largely on squid. Their hard, horny beaks cannot be digested. According to the most widely held hypothesis, the intestine of some sperm whales coats them in a fatty substance that gradually builds into a compact mass, in which squid beaks are often found.
Only a small minority of sperm whales produce it, in lumps weighing from a few grams to several kilos. Fresh, the material is dark, soft and smells strongly of excrement. As it floats, it hardens, grows paler and loses that smell under the action of sun, oxygen and salt. Ambergris that has aged for a long time turns light grey, almost white, with a waxy texture. This is the most sought after. Black or brown pieces, which are younger, smell more animalic.
A material gathered on beaches
Ambergris cannot be farmed, and no one can predict where it will turn up. It is found along coastlines, most often by chance. Some collectors comb the beaches after storms, sometimes with dogs trained to sniff it out. Identifying it takes experience, because many pebbles and lumps of fat look much the same.
The material has a long history. Arab merchants were already trading it in the Middle Ages, and the word amber comes from the Arabic anbar, which referred to it. In China it is called longxian, "dragon's saliva". It has been used as a remedy, a spice and a perfume. During the whaling era, part of the ambergris on the market came directly from slaughtered sperm whales.
From tincture to Ambroxan
To use it in perfumery, a tincture is prepared. The ambergris is ground into a powder and left to macerate in alcohol for several months. The tincture is used at very low doses, as much to bind and extend a formula as for its own scent.
The main constituent of ambergris is called ambrein. It has almost no smell. During the long stay at sea, oxidation and light break it down into several odorous molecules. The most important is ambroxide, commonly known as ambrox. It carries much of the dry, woody, ambery scent of aged ambergris. Others, such as ambrinol, are earthier and more animalic.
Chemists learned to make ambroxide in the mid twentieth century. The classic route starts from sclareol, a substance extracted from clary sage. More recently, some manufacturers have developed biotechnology processes based on plant sugars.
It is sold under several trade names depending on the manufacturer: Ambrox, Ambroxan, Cetalox, Ambrofix. They refer to ambroxide or very close versions of it. Ambrostar belongs to the same family of ambery molecules. On a fragrance pyramid, these names almost always indicate a synthetic note.
Natural ambergris and "ethical" ambergris
The sperm whale is a protected species. The international moratorium on commercial whaling has been in force since 1986, and trade in whale products is regulated in many countries. Ambergris is a special case, since it is expelled naturally and collected without touching the animal.
The rules vary widely from one country to another. Some ban its trade outright. Others allow the sale of ambergris found on beaches. These rules change over time, and we make no claim to cover them all here.
The phrase "ethical ambergris" generally refers to ambergris collected on the shore, with no link to whaling, and of known provenance. It is a commitment made by the house, which we cannot verify ourselves. In the vast majority of perfumes, the word "ambergris" refers to an accord built with ambroxide, other ambery molecules and musks.
Not to be confused with amber
In perfumery, the word amber covers three different things. Ambergris is the material described in this article. Fossil amber, or yellow amber, is a fossilised tree resin used in jewellery. It plays no part in perfume. In fact, the sperm whale's material took the French name ambre gris, grey amber, precisely to set it apart from this resin.
The third meaning is the most common on fragrance pyramids. "Amber" on its own refers to a warm, sweet accord, most often built with labdanum, benzoin and vanilla. It is the heart of so-called oriental or amber perfumes. It smells of resin and balsam, whereas ambergris smells drier and saltier. You will find many amber accords in our selection of oriental perfumes.
Finally, "woody ambers" are powerful molecules that combine a dry ambery facet with a woody effect.
What ambergris smells like
A good natural ambergris has a discreet but very tenacious scent. There is a saline, marine facet, reminiscent of seaweed and skin after a swim. Then come soft animalic notes close to musk, a facet of blond tobacco, and an earthy side of forest floor or dead leaves. The whole often evokes skin.
Ambroxide gives a cleaner, drier version of it. It smells of ambery wood, minerals and clean skin. It is highly diffusive and lasts a long time on skin and clothing.
Ambergris and its substitutes give volume to citrus, marine notes and pale woods. With rose or jasmine, they bring a skin effect. With tobacco, leather and incense, they reinforce the animalic and smoky facets.
Ambergris perfumes from our catalogue
All the perfumes below list ambergris, Ambroxan, Ambrostar or an ambergris accord in the pyramid published on their product page. The product pages do not say whether this is the natural material or an accord.
Marine, salty ambergris
Aura, by Aaron Terence Hughes, places ambergris at the heart, alongside sea salt. Lemon, rum, pink grapefruit, lime and mint make up a mojito opening, before a base of vetiver, patchouli and sugar cane. Our introduction to Aaron Terence Hughes tells the story of the house.
Vitias, by Pernoire, ends on ambergris, white musk, marine notes and Iso E Super. Bergamot, lime and two peppers open onto a heart of angelica, iris, blond woods and guaiac. Our introduction to Pernoire describes the Swiss house.
Ambroxan with citrus and woods
Legend, by Aaron Terence Hughes, is built around Ambroxan, placed at the heart with apple, galbanum and tonka bean. Italian citrus opens the composition, and a base of dry woods, elemi, oakmoss, sandalwood and vetiver carries it through.
Guapo, from the same house, brings both forms together. Ambroxan sits at the heart, with apple, tonka and amber, and ambergris returns in the base with sandalwood and vetiver.
Ambroxan and conifers
Timber Suit, by Tada Parfumeur, pairs Ambroxan with suede and cedar in the base. Lemon, cardamom and spearmint at the top, then a heart of pine, juniper berry and cypress. Our introduction to Tada Parfumeur presents the perfumer.
Boreal Fir N°M39, by ChuJian, lists a woody ambergris in the base, with guaiac, cypriol, musk and cashmeran. Pink pepper, cardamom and saffron open onto a heart of fir, cedar, sandalwood, tea and vetiver.
Ambroxan with leather
Night Tempo, by Tada Parfumeur, ends on Ambroxan and leather. The opening combines sugar, metallic notes, lime and vinyl. The powdery heart brings together suede, iris and rose.
Ambergris and rose
Ambergris Rose N°P29, by ChuJian, carries the material in its name. The rose, lifted by pink pepper at the top, rests on cedar at the heart, then on a base of Ambroxan, white musk, cashmere wood, powdery woody notes and amber. The product page recalls the Chinese name for ambergris, "dragon's saliva". Our article on ChuJian introduces the house.
Ambergris with white flowers and skin
Above The Clouds, by Zhufu, pairs ambergris with ambrette, another note that evokes skin, in a base of Chinese cedar, patchouli, sandalwood and vetiver. Bergamot, citrus and green cardamom at the top, then bamboo, borneol, lily of the valley, iris, white magnolia and white tea at the heart. See our article on Zhufu.
Luvani, by Pernoire, uses Ambrostar in the base, with cedar, frankincense and white rose. Moonflower, incense, jasmine and tuberose open onto a heart of hazel leaf, vanilla, guaiac and nutmeg.
Yue Tan Li Yuan, by Cinojad, places ambergris at the heart, with allspice and lemongrass. Chinese pear, apricot kernel and sophora flower open the composition, and the base brings together white sandalwood, cashmeran and Tarakan agarwood. Our introduction to Cinojad tells the story of the house.
Ambergris with tobacco and leather
Aswan, by Widian, puts ambergris at the heart with violet leaves and Virginia cedar. Bergamot, pink pepper and raspberry at the top, then a base of patchouli, vanilla, tobacco, musk and leather. The house is presented in our article on Widian.
Ambergris with smoke
Labels of Feelings, by Adi ale Van, composed by Antonio Alessandria, sets a white floral of lily of the valley, magnolia and jasmine on a base of cedar, frankincense, labdanum, leather, smoke, ambergris accord and musks. See our introduction to Adi ale Van.
The animalic, gourmand facet
Leonarda, by Spiritica, opens the house's Crime Collection. Soap, blood orange, caustic soda and black pepper at the top, then whipped cream, biscuits and raspberry syrup at the heart. The base brings together oud, sulphur, dark chocolate and ambergris. Our article on Spiritica introduces the house.
Cocoa Toffee, by Zhufu, explores roasted notes: Tianjin mahua, hazelnut and peanut at the top, cocoa, ebony, toffee and incense at the heart, then guaiac, coffee, musk oud and ambergris in the base.
More marine and woody compositions can be found in our selections of fresh perfumes and woody perfumes.
Frequently asked questions
Is ambergris sperm whale vomit?
That is a widespread belief, but ambergris forms in the intestine. According to the most common explanation, it is expelled naturally with the faeces.
Do ambergris perfumes contain natural ambergris?
Rarely. The material is scarce and expensive, and its trade is regulated in many countries. Most perfumes use an accord based on ambroxide and other ambery molecules.
What is the difference between Ambroxan and ambergris?
Ambergris is the natural material, which contains dozens of compounds. Ambroxan is the trade name of a single molecule, ambroxide, which is present in aged ambergris and is now produced by synthesis. It reproduces the dry, woody facet of ambergris, but not all of its marine and animalic character.
Are ambergris and amber the same thing?
No. Amber on its own most often refers to a warm accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla. Ambergris smells saltier, drier and more animalic. Fossil amber is a petrified resin with no use in perfumery.
Why can some people barely smell Ambroxan?
Sensitivity to large ambery molecules varies a great deal from one person to another. Some people barely perceive it, especially after a few minutes. That does not mean the perfume has gone.
Further reading
Ambergris is one of the materials covered in our Perfume materials guide, alongside oud, sandalwood and vanilla. To compare a marine ambergris, a woody Ambroxan and a more animalic ambergris on your own skin, the perfumes mentioned are available as 2 ml samples, depending on the house, on our samples page.